Perfect Oven-Broiled Salmon With Three-Citrus Butter

For the three-citrus butter: In a small saucepan over high heat, stir together the zests and juices from the lemon, lime and orange with the sugar, garlic and salt and pepper to taste. Bring the mixture to a boil and cook, stirring, until the mixture is reduced to 1/4 cup.

Remove the pan from the heat and immediately whisk in 2 pieces of the chilled butter. As the butter softens and incorporates into the liquid, whisk in a few more pieces. Then return the saucepan to the stove. Adjust the heat to low and, whisking constantly, continue adding pieces of butter in the same manner until the mixture is thickened. Remove from the heat; cover and set aside.

For the salmon: Preheat the broiler.

Brush the salmon fillets with the oil and season with salt and pepper to taste. Broil the salmon about 6 inches from the heat for 5 minutes. Turn off the heat and let the salmon bake for another 5 minutes without opening the door. (Cook salmon fillets 10 minutes per inch of thickness.)

To serve, transfer the salmon to a platter and drizzle with some of the three-citrus butter. Cover and refrigerate remaining citrus butter for another use.