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Oyster Veloute With Lemongrass

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Oyster Veloute With Lemongrass

2 cups whipping cream
1 stalk lemongrass, stalk and tough outer leaves removed, tender heart of bulb coarsely chopped
2 sprigs cilantro
1 1/2 inch thick piece peeled ginger, cut in half
3 cups low-sodium chicken broth
1/2 teaspoon powdered gelatin, softened in 1 tablespoon cold water, then heated until gelatin is dissolved
2 leeks, white and lightest green parts only, split lengthwise, cut into 1/4 inch pieces and washed
salt, freshly ground white pepper
24 seasonal North Atlantic oysters, well rinsed (reserving 1 cup oyster liquor if shucked by fishmonger) Hot red pepper sauce
4 ounces osetra caviar, optional

Pour cream into small saucepan and toss in lemongrass, cilantro and ginger. Bring to boil. Adjust heat so that cream is at steady simmer. Let cream bubble away until thick enough to coat back of wooden spoon and reduced to about 2/3 cup. Patience, this might take as long as 30 minutes.

Remove pan from heat. Cover and allow cream to infuse for 1 hour, time enough to take in lemongrass, cilantro and ginger flavors. Pour cream through fine-mesh sieve into larger bowl and keep close at hand. Discard solids.

Bring broth to simmer. Stir in gelatin. When gelatin is dissolved, whisk broth into cream. Let mixture cool. Cover and refrigerate, whisking from time to time, until veloute is well chilled.

Place leeks in small saute pan or skillet with 3 or 4 tablespoons water. Season with salt and pepper. Cover and cook leeks until tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Drain and cool, then cover and chill.

Shuck oysters, placing oysters in one bowl and their liquor in another. Keep oysters covered in refrigerator. Discard oyster shells and save 1 cup liquor.

Little by little, strain liquor into chilled veloute mixture, what amount you add will depend on how briny you want taste to be and how thick or thin consistency. Season with pepper and hot pepper sauce and refrigerate until serving time, but no more than 2 hours.

To serve, place 1 spoonful leeks in bottom of each of 4 small chilled soup bowls. Top with caviar.

Pat oysters dry between paper towels and arrange 6 oysters around leeks in each bowl. Stir chilled veloute very well and pour it into bowls. Serve immediately. Yields 4 servings.


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